16 – 20 FEBRUARY 2022
We loved St. Helena Bay so much: the setting of Midwest Caravan Park, the fishing, and the swimming. (https://www.silversurfer-sws.com/?p=686) We packed up with a heavy heart, but we had things to do and places to see. We drove further north on the R399 and then joined the R27 to Velddrif. As we crossed the Carinus Bridge over the Berg River, I told Andre, “Now we’re behind the Bokkom-curtain, Baby!”
DWARSKERSBOS CARAVAN PARK
We drove through Velddrif and Laaiplek to head further northwest on the R399. And then turned north on Main Road to Dwarskersbos.
When we checked in to the municipal caravan park, we were absolutely stunned by how full the campsite was. But, with a further 15% discount for a three-night stay on rates that are already very reasonable, it was no wonder. (R155 for a weeknight; R275 for weekend-nights; less 15%)(https://www.westerncape.gov.za/facility/dwarskersbos-caravan-park)
Of course, all the seafront plots were taken. Luckily, we could still get a good spot with high trees and a brick-built braai. It was also close to the neat and clean ablution facilities. Each ablution block also has dish-washing facilities and a washer and drier operated with just two R5-coins.
The caravan park is safely and securely fenced in with a pedestrian gate to the beach. Electric gates (for which you get a tag) lead to Main Road. Just outside the electric gates, there is a small café with all the basics and a small restaurant, Die See Kaia (The Sea Home) for a quick meal or take-away.(https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100057616442723)
WHAT TO DO IN DWARSKERSBOS
1) ENJOY THE OCEAN AND BEACH
After also searching fruitlessly in Velddrif and Laaiplek for someone to repair his broken fishing rod, Andre ingeniously managed to repair it on his own. All he needed was a thin drill-bit, silicone and sewing thread. Inspired by the many small fishing boats, he spent most sunsets in Dwarskersbos on the beach, hoping to catch some fish. But to no avail – he did not even have a bite!
I enjoyed this peaceful time to take photos of the spectacular sunsets which Dwarskersbos are famous for.
This is also the perfect time of day to enjoy a stroll on the pristine white beaches stretching for kilometres along the coastline.
2) ENJOY THE FOOD
Apart from the small café at Die See Kaia, you can also stock up on basics at the Minimark. Visit Deli on Main for home-bakes and ready-made meals, or stay for coffee and a delicious sit-down breakfast or lunch. (https://www.facebook.com/DeliOnMainDKB/)
On Main Road between Velddrif and Dwarskersbos, we had lunch at the stunning Soverby Lapa. (https://soverbylapa.co.za/) It is situated right at the shore with a boardwalk leading down to the beach. It also is a function venue with the most incredible setting for a beach wedding. Here you drink pink gin and order fish or seafood! I had yummy, creamy, garlicky mussels with fresh bread. Even Andre opted for delicious calamari and chips instead of his usual hamburger!
3) VISIT ROCHERPAN NATURE RESERVE
As I have mentioned in previous blogs, one of the biggest advantages of purchasing a Wild Card, is that you visit smaller nature reserves which you might otherwise pass by. Rocherpan Nature Reserve (https://www.capenature.co.za/reserves/rocherpan-nature-reserve) is an excellent example of something great that we might have missed without a Wild Card. (https://www.sanparks.org/wild_new/)
One of the greatest assets of SANParks and Cape Nature is their friendly, competent staff. At Rocherpan reception, Rodney welcomed us with great enthusiasm.
He showed us the picnic spots and viewpoints on the reserve map, explained the walking trails and the location of the bird hides. He even showed us one of the eco-friendly bungalows where you can stay over next to the pan.
We drove through the reserve and investigated the bird hides and picnic spots. Because it was the dry season, the pan had no water, which meant no birds. Still, we were impressed with the facilities and how well-kept everything is.
We drove to the furthest viewpoint with a beautiful view over the white, unspoilt beach and the wild, untamed ocean. Here we had our regular breakfast of coffee and rusks, which Andre gulped down to go fishing. He kicked off his flip-flops so quickly to rush down the dune, that that is where they remained! The fish did not share his enthusiasm though…perhaps because two dolphins were chasing them away?
After the heat at the beach, the highlight of my day was a leisurely swim in the sparkling pool near reception. Usually, the pool is only for the use of overnight guests. I was so grateful that they allowed me to swim because it was a slow weekend.
WHAT TO DO IN VELDDRIF/LAAIPLEK
It is only a short drive of about fifteen minutes from Dwarskersbos to Velddrif and the harbour at Laaiplek.
1) VISIT THE BERG RIVER
Velddrif is located on the estuary of the Berg River before it debouches into the Atlantic Ocean.
There are quite a few guest houses, self-catering establishments, and campsites on the banks of the Berg River near Velddrif. You can even go on a river cruise with the Cracklin’ Rosie, Berg River Extreme Cruises, or one of the other operators.
Andre wanted to fish from his kayak. Therefore, we drove up-river on the R234 towards Hopefield. A big red boat announces the turn-off to the Knorvarkie Lapa and Campsite. Day visitors are welcome here at R50 per person for the day. (https://www.knorvarkie.co.za/)
I had coffee and rusks on the banks of the Berg River close to the railway bridge, but Andre could not wait to get onto the water. He fished around the pillars of the bridge for a while before heading northwest towards Velddrif. It was already getting hot early in the morning, so I also headed back to town.
I decided to spend my morning on the stoep of the Riviera Hotel while I waited for Andre to fish his way down the river. This brought back so many good memories of fishing the snoek-run with dollies along the West Coast when I was a child. My dad would always launch his small boat, Suzy, here from the Riviera Hotel. She still is the grande old dame of the West Coast. You cannot beat this beautiful view over the river and the Carinus Bridge. (https://www.eigevis.com/riviera-hotel.php)
I could see Andre rowing in and packed up to go and fetch him. I ordered a take-away milkshake to surprise him, knowing that he would be famished and de-hydrated after a warm morning on the river. And if he did not have any luck with the fish, at least a milkshake would comfort him!
2) EXPERIENCE BOKKOMLAAN
Bokkoms are salty, silvery, mullets strung together in bunches and hung to dry, like biltong. They are true West Coast delicacies but not meant for the faint-hearted!
As you enter Velddrif from Piketberg on the R399, turn left towards the river at Vye Street. At the bottom of the street, you will see the Heritage Site-sign where Bokkomlaan begins. Time stands still in the quiet gravel road between converted historic fish factories and old wooden jetties.
Apart from the Cracklin’ Rosie, other interesting crafts are also moored here.
Velddrif is the heart of the West Coast fishing industry. And this is where the humble bokkom was born. At Dagbreek Visserye you can watch the bokkom making process. Unfortunately, we arrived toward sunset and was too late to see that.
We had to make do with a drink on the jetty at Ek & Djy Vissery Etc, an eclectic little shop and restaurant which is worth a visit. Just make sure that you visit during opening hours: 09:00 tot GATVOL (09:00 to fed-up)! And be prepared to experience the locals who live behind the Bokkom-curtain… (https://www.facebook.com/groups/255086301873151/)
A cheeky grey heron struts his stuff around the shop and jetties – clearly the chief-in-charge here.
3) WINE (OR BEER) AND DINE AT PORT OWEN MARINA
Those in search of more sophistication, can stroll around Port Owen Marina. If you do not want to eat simple fish and chips, try dining here at Die Vaatjie Taphuis, Charlie’s Brewhouse or Russells on the Port.
We were more interested in a vintage 1968 Pontiac Grand Parisienne which we spotted in the parking lot. My grandfather owned a 1967-model which looks nearly identical to this car. It is still in the family and many of the cousins have used it either as their bridal car or for their matric farewell. Thirty years ago, we started our journey together in that Pontiac. And in 2017 our daughter was the first great-grandchild to use it for her Matric dance.
4) EXPLORE LAAIPLEK HARBOUR
Where the Berg River meets the ocean lies a bustling harbour lined with fishing trawlers. This is the heartbeat of the West Coast’s fishing industry. It is therefore fitting that the SA Fisheries Museum between the harbour and the iconic Laaiplek Hotel pays homage to these hardworking fishermen.
We walked along the harbour wall to the lighthouse. I watched the cormorants sunning themselves on the opposite wall whilst Andre chatted to the local fishermen who were trying to outwit a fish or two for dinner.
You can shop for gifts at the Lighthouse Giftshop in Mossel Street. Or over weekends, look for the yellow door opposite the boats to browse through the Harbour Pop Up Shop – Market Style.
No visit to Laaiplek Harbour is complete without an authentic seafood meal at Die Vis Vlekhuis. Although they do take-aways, do yourself the favour of sitting outside on their beautifully painted stoep to eat your food under the watchful eyes of a few optimistic seagulls. Andre ordered calamari and chips while I ordered a fried hake, prawns, and chips combo. We shared the different dishes, which were all simply superb. This fish must count under the top three fried fish dishes that I have ever eaten. (https://www.facebook.com/DieVisvlekhuis/)
THERE IS A MOUSE IN THE HOUSE
On our second-last night in Dwarskersbos, it was windy outside, so we sat inside Miss Daisy (our caravan). I was busy on my laptop when Andre suddenly shouted out. He had seen a mouse scurrying past my feet.
In two ticks I was on top of the bed, feet and all. It actually is so silly, because our daughter has two beautiful dumbo rats, Camembert and Mozzarella, that I cuddle all the time. But here I was – dead scared of a teeny-tiny little striped field mouse.
Andre trapped him underneath one of the benches from where we thought he could only go one way, and that was OUT! But, alas, the next night Mr Mouse was back; or still there!
It was already quite late, but Andre was a man with a mission. He stuck paper towels into all the holes underneath the benches and cupboards where the electrical wiring of the caravan runs. We realised that all the cavities were connected to one another. The mouse could have Andre running in circles all night.
To make matters worse, this was our last night in Dwarskersbos. That morning, Andre had washed our outside camping furniture. The birds had some fun messing on it from the high trees around our plot. So, because we were leaving the next morning, he did something that we never normally do – he packed everything into the caravan so long.
I do not know what our neighbours were thinking! Andre was kicking up an enormous racket. All the carefully packed furniture had to be moved to flush out the mouse. He was so focused on trapping the little mouse that he did not even realise that it was after midnight already! He tried squashing the mouse with the legs of one table, but the little critter was too fast.
Then Andre heard gnawing. When he looked behind the fridge, he could see small plastic particles. He realised Mr Mouse was trying to get out because the world was becoming to hot for him inside the caravan. He removed the airvent-cover behind the fridge and patiently waited a short distance away.
When everything was quiet, the mouse stuck out his head; looked left and right; then jumped down to scurry away to safety.
Mission accomplished – happy wife, happy life!
Until the next morning when our neighbours wanted to know, “What the devil were you doing in that caravan last night that caused such a racket?” I nearly died!
A LAST SURPRISE IN DWARSKERSBOS
After a quick coffee the next morning, we packed the last few things and started driving towards the gate of the caravan park. As we drove past the wooden houses on the one side of the campsite, I saw a familiar face.
It was an old school friend from my Piketberg days, Hesmari. She was visiting her parents, Oom Appel and Tannie Sonia, who were good friends of my parents. We spent many Sunday afternoons visiting them on their farm outside Piketberg. It was so nice to see them.
After a short visit, we travelled further to our next stopover in Elandsbaai.
