9 – 14 FEBRUARY 2022
After a wonderful visit to Yzerfontein (https://www.silversurfer-sws.com/?p=620) and a lovely day in the West Coast National Park (https://www.silversurfer-sws.com/?p=644), we were ready for our next chapter: Exploring the West Coast from Langebaan to Jacobsbaai (Jacob’s Bay).
LEENTJIESKLIP CARAVAN PARK
The friendly receptionist gave us a warm welcome at Leentjiesklip Caravan Park (https://sbm.gov.za/leentjiesklip-resort/), which would be our base for the next few days.
Even though we opted for a plot in the second row, which was a bit cheaper (R280) than the beach front plots (R320), our plot still had an uninterrupted view over the Langebaan Lagoon and Saldanha Harbour in the distance. Now this is what the West Coast is all about!
We erected our rally tent to provide some shade because there are not many trees in the caravan park. There are hedges between each group of six plots which provide wind breaks and a little bit of shade. Most of the plots are grassed and level. The ablution blocks are huge with spacious showers. A sunny, singing cleaner keeps everything neat and clean. Some plots also have private bathrooms and a portion of each of those plots has also been paved. Of course, those plots are more expensive than the rest.
I could not wait to get into the water. A seal was hunting a short distance from the shore, exciting all the gulls about a possible feast. Andre did some angling whilst I played in the waves right in front of our campsite. I could see the mullets outlined against the crests of the waves, but Andre had no luck catching any of the bigger fish that should be preying on them. We both had so much fun though! The water was fantastic!
A FISH BRAAI NEXT TO THE WATER
Although my fisherman came back empty-handed, we had a Plan B in place. When I let my friend, Sally, know that we were camping close to their home in Langebaan, they invited themselves to a braai at our campsite. But they promised to provide the fish. Sally’s husband, William, barbequed the cob-fillets to perfection. It really was a feast! We even had some left-overs to make a fish paté for our picnic in the West Coast National Park the next day (https://www.silversurfer-sws.com/?p=644).
It was wonderful to catch up with them as we watched the sun set over the lagoon. Two or three dolphins hunting in the shallow water perfected the picture.
After such a relaxing evening, there can be few experiences as soothing as falling asleep to the sound of the waves in the background.
WALKING DOWN MEMORY LANE IN LANGEBAAN
Almost twenty years ago, when our kids were still toddlers, my parents-in-law owned a holiday home in Langebaan. When we made a quick dash into town to buy some groceries and bait, the way in which this small town had developed pleasantly surprised us. From a town planner’s perspective, Andre was impressed with the excellent urban design of the main street in Langebaan. You could see that some thought went into reviving and beautifying the business district of this West Coast town.
The local Spar has always been an excellent place to buy groceries and we supported them again. We were not disappointed – the potato salad from their deli was excellent and their garlic and feta flat bread was divine.
Andre knew just the place where he would find bait. Walking into Dihanti Hardware (https://www.shopwestcoast.co.za/listing/dihanti-paint-gardening-hardware-fishing/) was like greeting a long-lost friend. They still sell anything and everything.
We meandered down Bree Street and browsed through the interesting little shops selling everything from shells and crystals to beach wear and kites.
Of course, you cannot visit Langebaan without at least having a drink at Pearly’s on the Beach (https://pearlys.co.za/) while you watch the kite surfers frolicking in the waves. I can recommend the “Carwash” cocktail – according to Andre, the closest I would ever come to washing our car!
We had a lovely Valentine’s breakfast at Husky’s – at R52,00 their Value Breakfast really is excellent value for money. The service was friendly and efficient too. We were disappointed not to see any Huskies though! (https://huskys-restaurant-bar.business.site/)
SOME OTHER LANGEBAAN ATTRACTIONS
When our kids were younger, we holidayed at Club Mykonos in the Kalivas a few times. We drove through the resort to reminisce about our visits there (which we can totally recommend). It was good to see that the resort is maintained well. It still feels like a little piece of Greece. (https://www.clubmykonos.co.za/)
Our kids loved the indoor swimming pool, the donkey rides, and the putt-putt. The resort has a few additions which makes it even more child-friendly, like a mini-amusement park with rides. For the older kids (and even adventurous parents) the magnificent Chimp & Zee Skypark will be a huge attraction. (https://ne-np.facebook.com/ClubMykonosLangebaan/photos/our-chimp-zee-skypark-is-making-great-progress-this-week-watch-this-space-clubmy/4285041771517487/)
Close to Club Mykonos is the Laguna Mall. If you want to do shopping, most of the bigger franchises have food, clothing, and other speciality stores here. Andre went fishing at Spreeuwalle (a fishing spot near Curro Private School) twice. Each time I dropped him off and then went to the San Luis Spur Steak Ranch in this mall. (https://www.spursteakranches.com/za/restaurant/western-cape/langebaan/laguna-street/san-luis-spur)
We have learnt that if you need WiFi that works while you are on the road, then you can depend on the Spur. They also have tables equipped with plug points for your electronic devices. The manager on duty was so welcoming and they allowed me to work undisturbed. Of course, nothing beats their Peppermint Crisp Tart and a milkshake to encourage your productivity!
We drove past another old Langebaan faithful – Die Strandloper (Beachcomber) Restaurant . This is a relaxed, informal restaurant and bar on the beach next to Leentjiesklip Caravan Park. Unfortunately, we missed out on a seafood feast this time, because they are only open on Wednesdays, and over weekends. (https://strandloper.com/)
One of our strangest expeditions was to the old quarries. Someone in the West Coast National Park told us that an eagle pair breeds there. Unfortunately, we did not find the eagles, but we saw rock kestrels and dassies (rock hyraxes) on the cliffs.
A DAY TRIP TO JACOBSBAAI
Less than half an hour from Langebaan the picturesque fishing village of Jacobsbaai nettles between the rugged rocks next to the Atlantic shore. Yesteryear, ships on their way to the Cape of Good Hope would drop their sailors who had scurvy here to quarantine and then, hopefully, pick them up again on their way back to Europe. The town is said to be named after Jacques Titius, a French colonial trader along the West Coast.
We detoured through Saldanha to have the clamp of our battery charger repaired, but Andre thought the quote from the auto-electrician was ludicrous. As we left Saldanha via Diaz Road, the road becomes a gravel road when you turn north at Tabakbaai.
We went off-roading to explore the rugged coastline of Danger Bay until we reached the outskirts of Jacobsbaai. This small village stretches along the coast for about two kilometres. The coastline consists of seven small bays with interesting names like Moerie-se-baai (Mauritz Bay), Kwaaibaai (Angry Bay) and Bamboesbaai (Bamboo/Kelp Bay). It is not a sheltered bay like Saldanha Bay though. Here you can experience the full force of the Atlantic Ocean. Wave upon wave crashes wildly against the rocky outcrops which protect the sandy bays.
The strict building regulations which govern the aesthetics of the houses ensure that Jacobsbaai will not lose the historical character of the original fishing village. All the houses are painted a crisp white. We enjoyed admiring the beautiful architecture of the houses.
On one small peninsula, we were puzzled by big white buildings with red roofs and restricted access signs.
As we drove in and out of the various crescents and cul-de-sacs of the small village, we saw three interesting sculptures of women (or are they mermaids?) on a group of rocks. How special is that!
LUNCH WITH A VIEW
The last bay to the north is the bay which lends its name to the town. This is where we made our final stop in Jacobsbaai for a late lunch at a restaurant formerly known as Die Weskusplek (The West Coast Place). We drove past the abalone farm of Jacobsbaai Sea Products to a small peninsula on the other side of a bay. The restaurant is situated right on the beach with the most incredible view over the small bay and the residential area of Jacobsbaai on the other side.
The new owners divided the current restaurant into two sections: The Hungry Monk (a fine-dining franchise) https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Restaurant/The-Hungry-Monk-Jacobsbaai-108728228211131/ and a pub called The Rock Lobster . We chose to sit outside on our own private stoepie (veranda).
We could order from either menu. The Hungry Monk was a bit pricey for our budget though. I ordered fish & chips from the pub menu and Andre ordered their hamburger. Both our meals were excellent and tasted even better washed down with a tall glass of Saggy Stone craft beer which they have on tap. We also had a friendly and attentive waiter.
We drove back to Langebaan leisurely on the main road past Saldanha Steel.
GETTING SOME R & R
When you are on the road, it is important to take a vacation from your vacation every now and then. Sightseeing can be exhausting! We have a “house day” every week or so when we catch up on admin, organise and clean Miss Daisy (our caravan) and Steve (our Landrover), and just chill in the campsite. Our plans are normally fluid and flexible. We only intended staying in Leentjiesklip for four nights, but the morning that we had to depart, I woke up with my back in a spasm. We decided to take a day off in Langebaan before we headed further north on the West Coast. The rest and relaxation did us (and my back) a world of good!
Baie mooi!