West Coast National Park – a lagoon paradise

9 – 10 FEBRUARY 2022

We had a final cup of coffee with rusks (just so that Andre could feed his hoenertjies) in Yzerfontein. (Read all about our great stay here in my previous blog. https://www.silversurfer-sws.com/?p=620) Then we did our dishes, packed up Miss Daisy (our caravan) and set off to Langebaan.

We followed the R27 until we reached the gate to the West Coast National Park. Instead of driving further on a boring highway, we opted to drive through the park. And why not? We do after all have a Wild Card – an excellent investment if you plan on travelling in South Africa extensively. It is your golden ticket to free entry into all our national parks, as well as certain regional parks. (https://www.sanparks.org/wild_new/)

As we had our first views over the water, I wondered if this was what paradise looked like. We decided to spend the next day in the park before it got too busy over the weekend.

WEST COAST NATIONAL PARK

After settling in at Leentjiesklip Caravan Park (don’t miss out on my next blog), we woke up the next morning to a slightly overcast day. This cemented our decision to pack a picnic basket and head into the West Coast National Park. We entered the lagoon paradise through the northern gate.

SEEBERG BIRD HIDE AND LOOKOUT POINT

Our first stop was to have coffee and rusks for breakfast at the Seeberg bird hide. It is such a pleasure to use facilities that is maintained as well as this boardwalk and the bird hide. Colourful pictures and descriptions inside the bird hide help to identify the birds that you see.

We could see a few greater flamingos in the distance, as well as other water birds and a few ostriches.

A mommy white-fronted plover was guarding two little chicks too well in the vegetation. I simply could not outwit their security guard to photograph these cute little balls of fluff. I am very proud of my photograph of an angulate tortoise that was grazing near the bird hide. See if you can spot the passenger under his chin!

We then proceeded up Seeberg to the viewpoint. What an incredible 360-degree view over the lagoon and the park! In the west you can see Kraalbaai against the backdrop of Konstabelberg (Constable Hill). In fact, you can even see over the western peninsula all the way to the Atlantic Ocean. I did not know that so many shades of turquoise existed, clearly demarcating the deeper and shallower parts of the lagoon. In the early-morning, overcast conditions, the lagoon looked like a moody teenager brooding over the unfairness of life.

A small white stone cottage, reportedly built by a Dutchman (Bollie Prenz) from stones found in the area, sits proudly on top of a large granite boulder. Inside the cottage, a small museum with posters provides valuable information about the history and geography of the area.

From the boulders we spotted two bontebok grazing in the distance and a small rock kestrel (kransvalkie) hunting nearby. As we headed away from Seeberg, we also saw a red hartebeest napping down in the valley. Although the brochure indicates other antelope that also live in the park, the vegetation is so lush and thick that they are hard to spot. Do not make that your focus, but rather see spotting wildlife as a bonus.

GEELBEK VISITOR’S CENTRE AND BIRD HIDE

We meandered slowly to the Geelbek Visitors Centre where a replica of Eve’s footprints can be viewed.  The original footprints, discovered at Kraalbaai on the western side of the lagoon, are now housed in the Iziko Museum in Cape Town. They apparently belonged to a young woman who lived in this area 117 000 years ago.

We walked to the bird hide closest to the main buildings where an honorary guard of seagulls welcomed us. Here we could see the flamingos more clearly, although they faced away from us into the blowing wind, flashing us with their pink bums. We could also see ibises grazing in the shallow waters. Andre even saw a small stingray swimming past the bird hide.

The Geelbek Restaurant offers take-away meals and drinks which you can enjoy anywhere in the grounds. A cheeky little coot seems to rule the roost here. While you wait for your food, you can admire the art exhibition housed inside the beautiful old farmhouse.

ABRAHAMSKRAAL BIRD HIDE

One of the other guests at Geelbek alerted us to something special at the Abrahamskraal bird hide. What a privilege to see three white-throated swallow fledgelings squeezed tightly into their clay nest inside the bird hide. The mommy kept darting in and out to feed her babies, whilst the daddy kept guard on the windowsill.

 We also saw yellow-billed teals (where the name of the farm “Geelbek” comes from) in the pond below the bird hide.

CHURCHHAVEN AND STOFBERGSFONTEIN

We were fortunate that we had to pick up something for a friend in Churchhaven. We therefore gained entry to an area which would normally be off-limits to the public. This is such a picturesque little hamlet which oozes peace and tranquillity.

We also drove past Stofbergsfontein just north of Churchhaven. This was originally the farm given on loan to Corporal Jacobus Stofberg (who was the VOC “Posthouder” of Saldanha Bay) in 1790. We were surprised to see that there were still some plots for sale here. All the houses are built in the same fisherman’s style. Most have solar panels, which we assume means that you are totally off-grid here.

TSAARSBANK PICNIC

Our next stop was for lunch at Tsaarsbank. As you reach the locked gates to Postberg Reserve (which is only open to the public during spring for the wildflower season) a gravel road turns away to the left. Brick-built braais and picnic benches are spread out next to the rocks along the wild Atlantic shoreline. We had a wonderful picnic here with fresh bread, cheeses, and homemade fish paté.

You cannot but be in awe of the force of the water as the waves crash against the rocks. We could see Vondeling Island in the distance with the waves crashing high above the buildings on this abandoned seal station. I felt a strange magnetism emanating from the powerful waves and it was difficult to tear myself away when we had to leave.

KRAALBAAI AND PREEKSTOEL

After our lovely picnic, I was ready for a swim in the tranquil, warm waters near Preekstoel (a rock formation that looks like a church pulpit) in Kraalbaai. There are demarcated areas where power boats may not enter so that you can swim safely. The tide was going out and the water was so shallow that I had to wade out for about fifty meters before you could call what I was doing “swimming”. Andre stayed in the shallow water where he dug for prawns and blood worms.

From Preekstoel you can see the houseboats floating in Kraalbaai. Spending a weekend here with our family is very high up on my bucket list. It seems idyllic to break away from everything, even the confines of the shore.

A BIRD’S PARADISE

Apart from the many species of water birds that live around the lagoon, we were also lucky to see birds of prey. We frequently noticed a specific species of bird, but we could not get close enough to identify it. We are by no means bird specialists, but we have gained a newfound respect for their beauty since we started travelling. Andre’s dad gave us his pocket SASOL bird guide to attempt some identifications.

As we were slowly driving back to Langebaan, we saw this magnificent regal creature perched on a fence post. Andre took beautiful photos which enabled us to identify it as a common buzzard (bruin jakkalsvoël). And as we drove past Geelbek, another common buzzard caught a mouse right in front of us in the road!

The West Coast National Park is worth visiting, even when it is not wildflower season. Make sure that you set out a whole day to fully experience the splendour of the natural beauty around the lagoon.