Yzerfontein – the Gateway to the West Coast

07 – 09 FEBRUARY 2022

Despite my best intentions in my previous blog (https://www.silversurfer-sws.com/?p=598), I did not manage to write anything during the holiday season. So, new strategy: at least try to keep up with our current travels!

A SAD START TO 2022

Despite Andre’s firm belief that 2022 would be a great year, our year started off slowly and sadly. My granny turned an incredible 102 years old on 13 January, but unfortunately passed away soon thereafter on 31 January. After saying our final goodbyes on 5 February, Andre and I really needed to get away for a break. We packed Miss Daisy, and finally hit the road on 7 February. Our first stop was Yzerfontein – the Gateway to the West Coast. (https://yzerfonteintourism.co.za/)

GETTING THERE

Normally you would just follow the R27 West Coast Road out of Cape Town, but we headed north on the N7-highway. We stopped at the Engen Swartland 1-Stop to refuel Steve, our Disco 4 Landy. Packing is hard work, and a Wimpy-brekkie courtesy of FNB On-the-Go (one of our eBucks-rewards) was just the right thing to refuel ourselves too.

Just after the 1-Stop, we turned west on the R304 and headed towards Atlantis, where we turned north onto the R307. If you have the time, a stopover in the quaint village of Darling is worth it. We have done a few day trips out to Darling, so this time we headed straight through town, following the R315 across the West Coast Road to Yzerfontein.

YZERFONTEIN CARAVAN PARK

Checking in at Yzerfontein Caravan Park (http://www.swartland.org.za/pages/english/yzerfontein-caravan-park.php) took some time with the receptionist who seemed efficient but quite stern and a bit scary. We could choose our own plot and by late afternoon our camp was set up. Andre could sit in the shade and feed his “hoenertjies” (beautiful Cape Pheasants) – one of his favourite pastimes when we are on the road.

Yzerfontein Caravan Park has large plots, mostly grassed, with high hedges between the plots providing shade. It is adjacent to the beach, with plank boardwalks that give you direct access.

Unfortunately, the campsite is situated behind the dunes, so you do not have a sea view. The ablution facilities are dated but kept immaculately clean. Each plot also has a brick-built braai, although most of them are slightly dilapidated.

IT’S ALL ABOUT THE BEACH

Andre had a quick nap while I headed into town to buy some groceries at the large, modern Spar. I also stopped at Dassen Seafoods (https://www.facebook.com/pages/category/Fish-Market/Dassen-Seafoods-Yzerfontein-1623392887682094/) in Park Street to buy fresh mussels for a potjie.

Although we have driven through Yzerfontein once or twice over the years, we have never really spent time there. I could not wait to get to the beach, and I was not disappointed. The picture was just as perfect and idyllic as I remembered: the harbour wall to the south, Meeurots (Gull Rock), the small island just north of the pier, and Rooipan se klippe (Red Pan’s rocks), a small outcropping of rocks to the north. We headed towards Rooipan se klippe first and admired the view down 16-Mile Beach, the longest uninterrupted beach on the South African coastline. Then we took a leisurely walk on the pristine white sand of Main Beach all the way to the stairs which head up into the village.

As we walked back to the campsite, the sun started setting.

We watched a guy sailing on a hydro-foil windsurfer-like contraption. We also giggled at a seagull that struggled to find food on the rocks whilst the waves kept interrupting him. He finally just gave up and settled on a higher rock.

Then Mother Nature pulled out all the stops. It almost felt like a sensory overload as the most gorgeous array of reds, oranges, yellows, and golds were painted across the western sky.

A simple, hearty meal was the ideal sequel to such a romantic sunset. We relaxed next to the fire whilst I cooked my legendary mussel potjie with white wine, garlic, cream, and mild curry. The fresh ciabatta that I bought at Spar that afternoon perfected our dinner.

A DUTCH BREAKFAST

One of the magic words that can charm Andre into doing almost anything, is pancake! As we drove into town, we both noticed a little Dutch Coffee Shop in Park Road, which advertised pancakes.

The next morning, we set off to Café René for breakfast. What a revelation! Our host, René, had such an interesting and colourful personality. He served us with excellent, strong Café Lattés whilst regaling his life history and interesting titbits about Yzerfontein and its people. Our pancakes did not disappoint either – thick and sumptuous filled with banana and sweet caramel sauce. (https://www.kaijaiki.co.za/cafe-rene.html)

HARBOUR HIGHLIGHTS

If Yzerfontein is the gateway to the West Coast, then I suppose its harbour is the gateway to the Atlantic Ocean. Of course, we first took the obligatory photograph from the Yzerfontein-signage before proceeding down to the harbour.

When we stopped in the harbour, we briefly saw two dolphins, but then they disappeared.  Our disappointment dissipated quickly as we walked down the concrete pier where a seal delighted us with his antics as he hunted a school of mullets.

It was a perfect, windstill day and I enjoyed taking photographs of Meeurots through the gigantic concrete dolosse (concrete blocks in complex geometric shapes) which line the pier to protect it from the force of the waves.

From the harbour, you can also follow the Schaap Island Hiking Trail.

A SMALL TOWN EXPLODING

More than 25 years ago, Andre and I left Langebaan early one Monday morning to return to work after a weekend away. In those years, petrol stations were not open 24 hours as they are today. So, we could not refuel in Langebaan and limped into a sleepy Yzerfontein before 7am, only to find out that Yzerfontein did not have a fuel station at all! With its last fumes, our little blue Opel Cub freed into Darling where we had to wait until 8 am for the petrol pumps to open.

But I digress, I actually want to compare that sleepy, little fisherman’s village of yesteryear with the exploding town of today. Andre and I drove along Dassen Island Drive and up to Atlantic Drive, staring at all the mansions that have been erected along the coast. And there still is a hive of building activity happening!

From Dassen Island Drive, between Roosmaryn Street and Kalkoond Crescent, we found a little footpath which led down to two beautiful, unspoilt beaches divided by an outcropping of rocks. Stunning pink flowers graced the vegetation. The area is known as Swemgat (Swimming Hole). There were a few sheltered alcoves where I contemplated swimming, but I did not have my swimming costume on.

Then Andre found the perfect spot. High up on the rocks, there was a private, natural bath where I could bathe in my undies, unseen from the beach. I don’t know if that is where the area gets its name from, but I thoroughly enjoyed my dip in the water – especially because it felt a little bit naughty!

OUR SEARCH FOR THE SALT PANS

After my swim, we headed out of Yzerfontein on the R315 in search of the salt pans. We turned north onto the Strandkombuis Road and found the aptly named Rooipan (Red Pan). This picturesque, smallish salt pan lies on both sides of the road as you turn west again towards the Strandkombuis (Beach kitchen) Restaurant and Venue. Pink and red hues shine through the shallow water and even the vegetation. Unfortunately, we did not see any flamingos.

The Strandkombuis itself was closed, but we walked around and up to the ceremony tent overlooking 16-Mile Beach. This would truly be a wonderful setting for a wedding. (https://www.strandkombuis.com/)

We drove further out on the R315, past the historic lime kilns, to search for the larger salt pan, but to no avail. There was no answer at Blombosch Lodge and the only other possible road led to the gypsum mine, which is off-limits to the public.

WRIGHT’S GIN

Feeling disappointed, we decided to drown our sorrows! And we found the perfect spot just a little further on the R315 towards the R27 – Wright’s GIN. This is a small family-run distillery on the same premises as the slightly more eclectic Yzervark Bistro and even more eccentric Olive Cocktail Bar.

One of the owners, Jason Wright, made us feel welcome immediately. It was lovely to see his wife and her “assistant”, their little daughter, busy in the distillery.

We ordered a gin tasting board and a cheese & meat charcuterie board to share. We were blown away by both. Jason served us and introduced us to all the technical aspects of their gin-making process. He also explained the four different flavour palettes of the gins on our tasting board. We were really intrigued and even more impressed when we tasted the gin with all the garnishes. My favourite was the apple-and-lychee London Dry gin, created by Jason’s assistant. Andre loved the amber spice liqueur. The Charcuterie board was beautifully presented and generous, with lots of little surprises. Our gin tasting truly was a memorable experience. (https://www.wrightsgin.com/)

A FINAL SUNSET

Back at the caravan park, we walked down to the beach for a final, romantic sunset before we would be heading out of Yzerfontein the next morning. If this is only the gateway to the West Coast, then I cannot wait for what the rest of our tour will bring.