RETHINKING MY BLOG
In between my last-minute Christmas shopping, I am making mental notes and packing lists. We are gearing up for the annual big migration to Stilbaai.
After some contemplation, I realised that I am busy with a seemingly futile attempt to catch up on all our travels over the past year in chronological sequence. It might be good to deviate from that routine. With the holiday season only a week or so away, I will focus on the Western Cape. In the past year, we have spent six months on the road. Of the eleven trips we did, eight were heading east on the N2 from Cape Town, And we only travelled as far as Plettenberg Bay!
I’ll start this series of blogs at Oewerzicht Farm, Greyton – a gem in the Overberg. From there I will continue writing in geographical sequence towards the Garden Route. Perhaps this will give you some new, weird or wonderful things to enjoy in your favourite holiday spot. Even when the beaches are closed!
With all the panic surrounding Omicron, most overseas tourists had to cancel their bookings. Hopefully that means that many South Africans will now be able to take a much-needed break. Let us support our local tourism industry that is choking in the stranglehold of this disease. And, hopefully, our beaches will stay open this year!
KICKING OFF OUR TRAVELS FOR 2021
When we returned home from Stilbaai just after New Year’s Day 2021, we spent about two weeks at home to do all the laundry! Just kidding, but it felt like that! We deep cleaned Miss Daisy, taking everything out to wash – which meant everything did not go back again. Miss Daisy also needed new tackies – but that is a story for another blog…
We had some administration work to do for our business, as well as some upkeep to perform on our properties. And I collected my new driver’s licence – it was ready in less than three weeks. I was not a little chuffed that everyone thought I looked much younger than I did 5 years ago! It had to be our new stress-free lifestyle that did wonders for me.
HEADING TO THE OVERBERG
On 18 January 2021 we hit the road again. We were ready for a new year of adventures. We did not want to go too far, because our daughter started her practical work experience in February.
Years ago, when our son was a baby, we spent a wonderful long weekend at Oewerzicht Farm Cottages near Greyton. We stayed in the old farmhouse. Since then, they developed a campsite as well. That is where we headed. (https://www.oewerzicht.co.za/)
STUCK ON THE N2 IN HOUW HOEK PASS
Everything was going smoothly until we passed Houw Hoek Farmstall, seriously contemplating whether we should stop for their famous pies. Even though we did not eat anything that morning, we decided to push through to the campsite. We knew we still had to travel some distance on a gravel road. With our fragile Miss Daisy that would mean driving slowly and gently.
Almost immediately we realised that we made an enormous mistake! A truck had overturned in Houw Hoek Pass on the last sharp bend overlooking the small town of Bot River below. Apparently, the accident happened earlier that morning and one of the drivers was fatally injured. Traffic had been diverted via Villiersdorp earlier, which would have been a better route option for us too, but we did not have our radio switched on.
At this stage, a stop-and-go system was in place and traffic was flowing slowly. The guy right in front of us drove so slowly that a big gap opened between him and the vehicle in front of him. This provided the ideal opportunity for the marshals to stop the traffic in our lane. We had to wait there for 45 minutes. And we could not even turn around to go back to Houw Hoek Farmstall. It would have been much more pleasant to wait there. Talk about getting hangry! At least we had something to drink and the driver behind us gave us all the information about the accident when we stretched our legs. Traffic backed up again for kilometres behind us.
OEWERZICHT FARM, GREYTON: 18 – 21 JANUARY 2021
When we could finally drive on, we followed the N2 towards Caledon. Although there is a turn-off to Greyton before Caledon, they advised us to rather drive through Caledon. After the Krige Silos on the right-hand side of the N2, a gravel road turns left towards Greyton. There also is a brown signpost for Oewerzicht at this turn-off. This gravel road apparently is better than the road from Greyton, but the corrugation was still rather bad.
We travelled slowly and only reached the farm after 5 o’clock. The office was already closed. When I phoned, the owner, Kootjie Viljoen, gave us directions to our plot right on the river. He also organised for his son to bring us braai-wood, because Andre realised that he had forgotten to pack the wood.
The campsite really is beautiful with lush lawns and trees or shade-cloth pergolas providing ample shade. Our only problem was that the electrical points were quite far apart. We usually take our long lead with, but we had forgotten it this time. That meant that we could not really park Miss Daisy as we would have liked to get the optimum view over the river and the mountains.
The amenities were adequate. During high season and over busy weekends, they operate a tuckshop (Sheila’s Spaza Shop) at the campsite, but it was closed while we were there. They also provide washing up facilities. The bathrooms are basic, but neat and clean, with an interesting, modern décor twist. The men’s bathroom even had funky open-air showers. I don’t know if we showered at the wrong time of day, but we never really had warm water when we showered. In the middle of January, this was still fine, but in winter, it would be a huge problem.
ENJOYING THE RIVER AT OEWERZICHT FARM
The main attraction at Oewerzicht Farm Cottages & Campsite, is the river.
Andre was aching to do some bass fishing after we set up camp. I shoo-ed him away to get some angling done in the golden hour before sunset. Only for him to discover that his case with all his fishing tackle was not in his blue fishing backpack. Yet another casualty of our deep cleaning efforts! At least he had a lure on each of his two fishing rods and could make a few casts from the riverbank.
We made a plan the next day to buy more lures so that Andre could also do some angling from his kayak. Unfortunately, he did not have as much as a nibble the entire three days whilst we were camping there.
Of course, the clear river water was extremely enticing to this water baby. I spent as much time as possible floating downstream.
My brother and his family have spent time here weekending in the cottages with friends and their kids always had so much fun on the short zipline (foefie-slide) into the river. With the next photo, I tried to trick them into believing that I was brave enough to slide down the zipline – which would of course have totally collapsed had I actually done so!
At sunset each evening, our fire was burning brightly, and we had drinks in our funky new glasses. We enjoyed the peaceful evenings looking out over the river and orchards towards the Riviersonderend (neverending river) Mountains.
OTHER ACTIVITIES ON OEWERZICHT FARM
It is important to remember that Oewerzicht is still a working farm and that normal farm activities continue. We saw them doing health checks on a whole flock of sheep and the workers were spraying insecticides in the orchards with a long-armed machine.
There are many little pathways that you can walk or cycle on the farm. We walked over the rather scary suspension bridge to have a look at the tented camp, although I would not call these well-appointed dwellings “tents”! Each unit is individually furnished and has a fire-heated hot tub to relax in with a view over the river and mountains.
Andre and I also drove up to the big farm dam high up in the valley behind the farmyard.
Andre hoped to do some fishing there and I was ready for a swim, but we were absolutely swamped by the mosquitoes. We just drove around the dam and admired the prolific birdlife from the safety of our vehicle.
Amongst the harvested wheat fields in this valley, we spotted many large green crop circles. We could also see some from the dam, where crops are watered with centre pivot irrigation systems.
SO MUCH TO DO IN GREYTON
Greyton is a uniquely quaint little town. Although it is small, there is so much to see and do, many interesting little shops to browse through, and restaurants galore. (http://www.greytontourism.com/) It was good to see that many businesses here had survived through the worst of the Covid-pandemic.
We explored the interesting antique shops in Greyton and Andre unsuccessfully tried to find lures for his bass fishing. Although we missed it this time, we know from previous visits that the Farmer’s Market on a Saturday is a wonderful opportunity to buy everything from second-hand books to fresh, local produce.
You can do a historic walk through town. The Information Bureau will provide you with a map and descriptions of noteworthy buildings. Apart from historic buildings like the Old Post House Hotel in the centre of town, the charm of the village lies in the preservation of its Cape Vernacular architectural heritage. It is worthwhile to drive through the residential areas of the town as well. The original irrigation system of street furrows (leiwater) has survived modernisation, which contributes to the feeling of peace and tranquillity that the town exudes.
WHERE TO EAT IN GREYTON
Andre and I had breakfast at the Fiore Garden Centre and Restaurant (https://www.fioregardencentre.com/home). It is in the main road on the left just as you enter town from Caledon on the R406. Our food was tasty and well-prepared, served by a friendly, competent waitress in a beautiful garden setting. A bonus was that the free Wi-Fi actually worked, unlike many other establishments where the signal or line speed is so weak or slow that it is not worthwhile using.
We treated ourselves to an early dinner on the deck of 1854 Restaurant (https://1854.salive.co.za/). The restaurant is named after the year in which the town of Greyton was established on Weltevreden Farm by its wealthy owner, Herbert Vigne. We enjoyed chatting to the friendly and knowledgeable owner and host, Mornay, about the history of Greyton and the impact of Covid 19 on the town. I enjoyed an excellent plate of Nachos, whilst Andre had a really HOT burger. (Yes, as always, but at least this one had a Mexican twist!)
ENJOYING NATURE
Just outside town, on the old road to Riviersonderend, we saw a turn-off for what looked like a moderate 4×4 route. This road led up to a viewpoint over the extensive public commonage crisscrossed by walking, cycling and horse-riding paths. You also have a wonderful view over the town itself from there.
This road is also where the Boesmanskloof Hiking Trail to McGregor on the other side of the Riviersonderend Mountains start. From the viewpoint, we drove back on the same track for a while, then followed the route parallel with the old Riviersonderend Road through beautiful indigenous fynbos on the foothills of the mountains.
EXPLORING SURROUNDING TOWNS
Oewerzicht Farm is situated in the heart of the Overberg. This is the ideal place from where you can explore other towns in the region.
Caledon
In search of bass lures, we took a road trip to Caledon. Although I grew up so close to Caledon, I don’t know much about the town. I do however experience a huge sense of wonder when I see the massive wind turbines next to the N2. And from the R406 you have the best possible view of them.
We made a few stops to look for lures, but it was in vain.
Then we drove around town for a while. We were astonished by the beautiful old houses in Meul Street that are still in such a good condition today. And I added another entry to my bucket list – The Caledon Hot Baths!
Villiersdorp
We decided to drive through to Villiersdorp to pop in on the farm to visit my cousins. Driving past Theewaterskloof Dam always gives Andre much joy remembering all the time that he spent there angling from his bass boat.
It was so good to see my cousins. I had not seen them since my uncle died from Covid a month earlier. Everyone had been in isolation then. Sitting on the big stoep on Skoongesig, flooded me with memories of visiting my grandparents and my teasing uncles on the farm. As always during this time of year, we left the farm with a big box of peaches – the tastiest in the world!
In town, Andre was finally successful in his quest to find lures. We also had a quick coffee with my other cousin in the house that my uncle and aunt retired to. It was hard to believe that we sat across my uncle at his kitchen table only two months earlier.
Genadendal
We returned to Oewerzicht on the gravel road past Helderstroom Prison. We were treated to beautiful views over the harvested wheatfields and fruit orchards. The mountains formed an imposing backdrop.
Andre stopped next to the road to do some fishing in the river, but again, no luck!
We detoured off the main road to drive through the missionary town of Genadendal. Although the museum was closed (Covid, of course) we drove slowly through the historic village to admire the old church, school, and cottages.
GOODBYE, OEWERZICHT FARM
We spent a last glorious sunset and peaceful night next to the river on Oewerzicht Farm. The next morning, after a last cup of coffee with rusks (and a delicious Skoongesig peach) on the banks of the Riviersonderend, we packed up. After three glorious days on Oewerzicht Farm, we slowly set off in search of a new adventure.
