27 – 28 OCTOBER 2020
We decided to spend our last day in the Lowveld with a road trip to Mbombela (Nelspruit). Hopefully, the Sudwala Caves would be open to the public, despite Covid-19, so that we could experience the Mbombela Beauty and Sudwala Caves Magic!
We still needed to find that Clicks Pharmacy which eluded us in Mashishing. On top of that, our trusted Isuzu-bakkie, Marius, started leaking oil like a sieve. Andre wanted to find an Isuzu-workshop just to check things out for us.
DRIVING THROUGH PINE PLANTATIONS
We drove south out of Sabie on the R532 and then turned left onto the R37 towards Mbombela. The initial climb on the R37 was steep, with the road turning back north sharply. This gave us spectacular views back towards Sabie down in the valley. From there, it was a beautiful drive, with the road winding down steadily through pine plantations surrounding us on both sides.
MBOMBELA: JEWEL OF THE LOWVELD
As we entered Mbombela, we were immediately struck by how modern and clean this small city felt. We saw evidence of new developments and frenetic building activity happening in the city. Even in the industrial area, there were beautiful flower beds on the sidewalks and central curbs. How wonderful to experience this Mbombela Beauty!
Andre found an Isuzu workshop (https://www.westvaalnelspruit.co.za/) and one of their friendly staff members quickly checked out Marius for us. The verdict was not too bad. We would have to replace an oil seal, but it could wait till we were back in Cape Town.
I’LANGA MALL
Our next stop was at I’Langa Mall (https://www.ilangamall.co.za/) to pick up Andre’s medication at the Clicks Pharmacy. Despite our failure to find a Clicks Pharmacy in Mashishing yesterday, this is an excellent way of managing your chronic medication while you are on the road. All the Clicks Pharmacies are linked on one network system. Once a Clicks pharmacist has loaded your prescription, you can pick up your medication at any Clicks Pharmacy in the country. (https://clicks.co.za/)
For those who enjoy shopping, I’Langa Mall is bright and modern with most of the usual South African enterprises represented there. We just grabbed a packet of delicious biltong from one of the vendors in the spacious passages and headed out again. Especially during these Covid-times, we prefer the fresh air outdoors. (If we want to keep on touring, we cannot afford too much shopping anyway!)
LOWVELD BOTANICAL GARDENS
We headed towards the Lowveld Botanical Gardens (https://www.sanbi.org/gardens/lowveld/) with our picnic basket. They took one look at Andre and assumed we were pensioners. Apparently, every Tuesday is Pensioner’s Day and entry is free.
What a pleasant surprise! These gardens are vast! We did not have enough time to walk through the whole property, but you could easily spend a whole day here. They have an excellent brochure with a site map detailing different routes. We walked the shortest route along the Crocodile River, marvelling at the rapids, potholes and waterfalls from the Cascades Viewpoint. A few beautiful, brightly coloured lizards were baking in the sun along the walkways.
We bravely crossed the suspension bridge into the African Rainforest. Here we found a secluded bench, surrounded by lush vegetation, where we enjoyed our cheese and crackers for lunch.
Visitors can walk further to the viewpoint from where you can witness the confluence of the Crocodile and Nel Rivers. The Botanical Gardens also has a stunning restaurant for visitors who feel peckish after their stroll through this beautiful property.
SUDWALA CAVES MAGIC
After lunch, we headed west out of Mbombela on the N4. We then turned north onto the R539 towards the Sudwala Caves. (https://sudwalacaves.com/) It is a steep, winding drive up the mountain to the parking lot. From there, you ascend a steep flight of stairs until you reach the ticket office and small shop. Not for the faint-hearted or unfit – but, hey, I made it!
But it is so worth the effort! The caves are magical. You are free to wander through the caves at your own pace. Knowledgeable guides are stationed at different points inside the caves, armed with more information to share with visitors.
The stalactites and stalagmites, which have formed impressive formations through the ages, enchanted us. Samson’s Pillar, The Lowveld Rocket, The Three Praying Nuns and The Screaming Monster are just a few of the interesting creatures guarding these caves. We also explored other nooks and crannies like The Devil’s Workshop and Fairyland. Crawling through those low tunnels reminded me of our visit to the DMZ in Vietnam.
We were disappointed though that we did not spot any of the 800 horseshoe bats that live in the Caves.
ARCHAEOLOGICAL AND HISTORICAL FACTS
The caves are also of archaeological and historical importance.
Archaeologists discovered stone tools used by Homo Habilis inside the caves. They are on display near the entrance.
In the power-struggle for the Swazi throne during the 1800s, Mswati, the rightful heir, tried to smoke out his half-brother, Somcuba, and his followers who were hiding in the caves. Unfortunately for him, he failed. The natural airflow blew out the smoke, but black soot marks are still visible today. The caves are named after Somcuba’s captain, Sudwala, who successfully defended this hide-away in many attacks from Prince Mswati.
During the Anglo-Boer War, the Boer soldiers used the caves to hide their ammunition. Maybe that is why some believe that the Kruger Millions are also hidden deep inside these caves?
Today, new history is made inside the caves. The main hall of the caves forms a small amphitheatre where well-known South African artists have performed. Imagine how special it would be to experience such a performance! Pure Sudwala Caves Magic!
RECONNECTING WITH OLD FRIENDS
We spent our last night in the Lowveld at Merry Pebbles before heading home.
On Wednesday, 28 October 2020, we turned Miss Daisy, our old caravan, around and started heading back on the N4 in the direction of Cape Town.
Our last stop in Mpumalanga, was in Middelburg. We visited old friends from my primary school days in De Hoek, a small cement mining town outside Piketberg in the Western Cape. Riaan and Lorraine spoiled us with a lovely lunch while we reminisced about our carefree childhood roaming freely from house to house in our little village. What a lovely way to end off such a special visit to this beautiful part of South Africa.
We really loved every moment exploring Mpumalanga and the Panorama Route. (Read more about these adventures: https://www.silversurfer-sws.com/?p=484; https://www.silversurfer-sws.com/?p=512; https://www.silversurfer-sws.com/?p=412; https://www.silversurfer-sws.com/?p=439)
Nadat ek en Elize my vrou al 54 lande besoek het, besef ons weer eens hoe mooi ons land is. Dit laat ons so goed voel oor ons mooi land as ons jou blog lees. Mag julle nog vele dele van ons land met ons deel. Oupie en Oumie.
Baie dankie, ons geniet ons reise deur ons pragtige land geweldig baie!