The Karoo National Park – an unexpected oasis

3 – 5 OCTOBER 2020

At least it was not raining when we woke up in the Karoo National Park (https://www.sanparks.org/parks/karoo/) on Saturday morning. Andre took his splash pool off the roof of the bakkie (with a little bit of help from me). Luckily, we did not get wet.

We spent an enjoyable morning exploring the park. Afterwards, Andre had hopes of playing tennis in Beaufort-West. We were supposed to leave the Karoo National Park the next morning, which meant we had very little time to explore the park properly. And we had fallen in love with this park. All the caravan sites were paved. The ablutions were modern, clean, and neat. They even had kitchen facilities with fridges, a massive freezer, two-plate stoves, a microwave oven, and a hot water boiler. And the friendliest staff in the country! We booked another night so that we could enjoy another full day in the park.

It started to rain again just as we drove into town for the tennis. Clearly, Rob McKenna was still in action and tennis would be out of the question. We decided to have a late lunch at Karushi in Donkin Street ( https://karushi.business.site/ ). First off, it took the waitress nearly half an hour to find a WiFi coupon so that we could work on our blog. It took her so long, that by the time our two different Ciabatta-sandwiches were served, the bread tasted stale. I asked the waitress how old the bread was. My question was met with extreme indignation. How could I say the bread was old? They received fresh bread EVERY Monday!! Uhm, well, hallooo, today was already Saturday!! After we had waited so long for our food, and because I was so hungry, Andre said we must just eat and go. Karoo meets sushi, in the end, did not seem like such a good idea – and we were definitely not going to brave their sushi!

Back at the camp, we sat outside for a while and Andre sang and played his guitar. We contemplated having a braai, but I did not trust the weather. After our late lunch, we decided that cheese and crackers would be more than enough for dinner. When the rain came pouring down shortly afterwards, we could just dive into Miss Daisy. We did feel a little sorry for the poor souls who had fires blazing.

The two days, which we spent exploring the Karoo National Park, surpassed our expectations. Although both sets of parents recommended the Karoo National Park to us, we did not quite know what to expect. We have driven past the park so many times on the N1, but nothing gives you any indication of the natural beauty that lies beyond the entrance gates.

The setting of the quaint chalets in the Main Camp with the majestic Nuweveld Mountains as backdrop, looks like a landscape painting.

The natural beauty becomes even more exceptional when you drive up the Klipspringer Pass to follow the Potlekkertjie Loop for a game drive through the park. We drove this route twice. We stopped at the viewpoint in the Klipspringer Pass for photos of the unique landscape and the incredible dry-masonry stonework of the road winding up the mountain.

A leisurely cup of coffee and rusks, whilst looking down at the dramatic Rooivalle (Red Falls), is the perfect start to an early morning drive. This spot is also popular with birdwatchers.

At the next lookout-point, we were intrigued by the old-fashioned, but apparently very effective, stone-built hyena-trap. It was so effective that the brown hyena nearly became extinct in the Karoo.

From this point, it felt as though you could see to the end of the earth. The mountain ranges seemed to echo each other into the distance. During the whole drive, you are aware of the magnificent Nuweveld Mountains dominating the landscape. And the weather has a marked influence on the mood portrayed by the mountains.

Although we did not have a 4×4 vehicle, Andre decided to tackle the 13km Afsaal Loop. Every time that we got out at a viewpoint during our first drive on the Saturday, we were a bit nervous about the possibility of encountering lions. Then, that evening, I read somewhere on the internet that the lions and rhinos were mostly only seen on the remote northern 4×4-routes of the park. So, when Andre heard nature calling loudly near the Afsaal Cottage on the Sunday, I assured him that it would be safe to get out of the bakkie to answer nature’s call. From the Afsaal Loop, we drove back to the Doornhoek Picnic area for a lovely late brunch that Sunday.

On the Saturday, we did not see many animals on the final plains of the Potlekkertjie Loop. Therefore, we decided to return to camp via the scenic Klipspringer Pass after our picnic. As we were sitting next to the fire that evening, Andre played guitar and sang. One of our neighbours came to compliment him on his singing. During our chat, he started telling us very excitedly about the lions that they saw that afternoon on the last part of the Potlekkertjie Loop, not far from the camp. AND, NOT FAR FROM WHERE ANDRE GOT OUT OF THE BAKKIE!! My husband was not impressed with me!

Around the rest camp, there are a variety of hiking trails and mountain biking trails. We took a brisk walk from the camp site, along the Rest Camp Trail, to reception. This trail took us past an old graveyard and another old-fashioned, stone-built hyena-trap. It also provided the names and information on some of the plants along the way. From there, we explored the Fossil Route. This trail illustrates the geology of the Karoo. It also has examples of petrified tree trunks and fossilised ancient animals, like Diictodon and Bradysaurus, that once lived in the Karoo. Although we found the displays and information interesting, it might be too scientific. Little (and big) boys love dinosaurs – perhaps the Fossil Trail might be even more popular if the information is presented as a story?

Closer to the entrance gate, the Lammertjiesleegte Loop is a shorter, circular route set on flat, tarred roads. We drove that just before sunset. Unfortunately, the Bulkraal Picnic Site was closed for maintenance, but it even has a swimming pool for cooling off on warm summer days in the Karoo.

During our stay in the Karoo National Park, we were lucky to see an abundance of wildlife. This is not a Big 5 Park, and if that is what you expect to see, you might leave disappointed. We saw mostly antelope, of which the smaller, shy bucks were the most special to us. We saw two pairs of steenbokkies, close to the road. From a fellow game watcher, we learnt that you could identify them by the striped pattern in their ears. A little klipspringer posed for the camera on top of a rocky ridge. A trio of mountain reedbuck hopped, skipped, and jumped up a small hillock, almost as if they knew they were entertaining us. Unfortunately, we only saw a springbok herd at a distance. We also saw beautiful specimens of the larger antelope, like the kudu, gemsbok (oryx), eland and red hartebeest. Another special encounter was when a group of three mountain zebra trotted ahead of us on a ridge next to the Klipspringer Pass. They then crossed the road right in front of us at the top of the pass. At nearly the same spot, the next day, we saw a black-backed jackal running up the mountain. From the top of the escarpment, a small herd of kudu cows were watching him intently. All we could see, were their ears cocked in his direction. They carefully followed his progress until he also crossed the road at the top of the pass and then disappeared. Close to the Doornhoek Picnic Site, a troop of monkeys were lazing in the sun on the rocks. The highlight of our stay was when Andre heard something in the bushes next to our camp site. In the light of his torch, we could see a genet (muskeljaatkat) scavenging for food. This was a first encounter for both of us. So special!

With heavy hearts, we said goodbye to the Karoo National Park the next morning. Although, I do not think that this will be our last visit to this special place. We will have to pass through Beaufort West many times on our future travels.

ANDRE’S ADDENDUM:

I know the N1 through the Karoo pretty well since I travelled it frequently while doing my national service for two years and then as a student thereafter. Like many other people, I associate the stretch of road between Beaufort-West and Laingsburg with watching paint dry, or something to that effect. Having one’s expectations surpassed, is one of life’s special treats. This the Karoo National Park accomplishes in no small degree. There is a stark contrast between driving through the Karoo via the N1, with little or very few noteworthy landmarks, and then, the astonishing natural beauty that exist only 10km north of the N1. It boggles the mind whilst, at the same time, lifting the spirit. Not only did it change my perception of what beauty the Karoo conceals, but I now look at the N1 differently, knowing it can be the pathway to magic.