Namaqualand Flower Power

8-10 SEPTEMBER 2020

No one can start a new adventure on an empty stomach. After we packed up at the dam, we had a lovely breakfast with the outlaws (called Oupie and Oumie by all) at Nancy’s Tearoom, situated at 33 Main Road, Clanwilliam. The tranquil garden setting was a quite surprise after walking through a long, dark corridor to get there. (Find them on Facebook or dial 027 482 2661.)

And then it was time to hit the road, Jack! Our convoy of two vehicles with two caravans in tow, set off north on the N7. I recently started realising that I had a thing for mountains. I was enthralled by the beauty of the Maskam Mountains, which necessitated a pitstop at one of the roadside picnic sites just before Vanrhynsdorp so that I could take some photos. But it turned out to be a hasty pitstop because we were under siege from the horseflies!

After a quick refuel in Vanrhynsdorp, we headed further north again. We drove past the Griqua Cultural Centre at Ratelgat, which was unfortunately still closed due to Covid-19. Our next pitstop was at the Gerber & Co Farmstall in Bitterfontein ( https://jsgerber.com/retail/ ). We bought cooldrinks, droëwors, and cookies, which we enjoyed on the broad stoep in the shade of the veranda. We were disappointed by the lack of friendliness and rural hospitality from the lady on duty, though.

From Bitterfontein northward, the wildflowers were beautiful and bountiful again. What a privilege to see this dry and dusty region dressed up in all its finery. We made a short detour through the sleepy village of Garies to buy some biltong. We arrived at the Verbe Caravan Park in Kamieskroon late afternoon. Our caravan site overlooked the most beautiful riot of wildflowers with the unique Kamieskroon Mountains as the backdrop.

The next morning, we left the caravans at the park and drove to the Namaqua National Park together in Oupie’s Fortuner. We were treated to the most spectacular array of wildflowers – fields and fields of orange, scattered with spots of white, yellow, and pink. And views into infinity from the Skilpad Rest Camp all the way to the West Coast and beyond.

When you enjoy the fresh air and natural beauty, you can build up quite an appetite. Luckily, during the flower season, some of the industrious farmers’ wives from the area create a pop-up restaurant, Die Murasie, in a dilapidated old farmhouse just outside the Namaqua National Park.

We were treated to flavourful, traditional bobotie and flaky, homemade, puff pastry pies filled with slow-cooked lamb. And boeretroos (filter coffee) with decadent brownies and real, old-fashioned lemon meringue pie for dessert.

I really love what they have achieved with the restoration of this old ruin, especially the decor of the quaint bathroom filled with antique furniture, dress-up hats and shoes and an antique christening dress hanging on the cupboard. (Find them on Facebook – and remember to take cash as payment!)

After our lovely excursion to the Namaqua National Park, we went back to Verbe Caravan Park, hooked our caravans, and drove the 70km to our next overnight stop in Springbok. We spent a peaceful afternoon in the Springbok Caravan Park. This also gave me the opportunity to finish sewing the remaining four cushions into their covers before we headed into the Richtersveld.

PS: Catch my reviews of these two caravan parks on my Caravan Park Reviews Page.

ANDRE’S ADDENDUM:

I find that, many times in life, you are surprised by the origin of some universal truths. Case-in-point: I was recently reminded by an English-speaking friend that Afrikaans is such a beautifully crude, but nonetheless, clearly explanatory, and to the point, language. At that moment, I was reminded of the first time we pulled into Kamieskroon and saw the scene below. Keep in mind that the mountain range is called the Kamies Mountains and “kroon” translates to a “crown” …